Phra Prang Sam Yot

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Phra Prang Sam Yot is the signature monument of Lopburi, a trio of linked laterite and sandstone towers built in the Khmer Bayon style around the 13th century. Standing right in the old town of this Central Thailand province, it is equally famous today as the favourite haunt of the city's long-tailed macaques.

Few sites in Thailand pack so much character into one compact stop: genuine Khmer-era architecture, a walkable old-town setting, and troops of monkeys clambering over centuries-old stone. It is one of the easiest places in the country to see Angkor-style prangs without travelling to Cambodia or the far northeast.

The three conjoined prangs, thought to have represented a Hindu trinity before later Buddhist use, are the main draw. Weathered Buddha images sit in the vaulted corridors, while outside the resident macaques groom, squabble and pose on every ledge, most actively in the cooler morning hours.

Circle the grassy grounds to view the towers from every angle, step into the dim corridors to see the surviving Buddha images, and watch the monkeys from a sensible distance. Most visitors pair the shrine with San Phra Kan just across the railway line and the other ruins scattered through the old town.

The central tower with its corncob silhouette and traces of stucco is the essential sight, along with the seated Buddha image placed before the prangs, a favourite monkey perch. The classic Lopburi photograph is the view of all three towers lined up from the lawn on the railway side.

Arrive soon after opening, when the light is soft and the macaques are foraging rather than mobbing visitors. The rear of the compound is usually quieter and gives clear views of the laterite construction, and the passing trains behind the towers make an unexpectedly good backdrop.

The site distils Lopburi's layered past, where Khmer, Hindu and Thai Buddhist traditions overlap in one monument. Locals still treat the monkeys with a mix of exasperation and respect, seeing them as connected to the nearby shrine of San Phra Kan, and offerings around the grounds reflect that living belief.

This is an urban archaeological site rather than a nature spot, but the macaque troop provides constant wildlife viewing at close quarters. Mornings and late afternoons are best for observing natural behaviour, and the small lawns around the towers offer shade-free but open walking.

Children are usually captivated by the monkeys, though adults should keep young kids close, as macaques snatch food, bags and loose items without warning. The compact site suits short attention spans, and combining it with the Lopburi Zoo makes an easy family half-day.

Lopburi is a quiet provincial town after dark and the shrine itself closes by evening. A modest night market typically sets up in the old town, and simple restaurants and beer gardens near the railway station serve visitors staying overnight.

Shoot the three towers from the railway-side lawn for the classic alignment, and use the corridors for atmospheric framed shots of Buddha images. Monkeys silhouetted on the prang finials at sunrise or late afternoon are the picture most photographers come for; a zoom lens keeps you at a safe distance.

The towers were raised when Lopburi, then called Lavo, lay within the orbit of the Khmer empire, and their Bayon style points to the reign of Jayavarman VII around the late 12th to 13th century. Originally linked to Hindu and Mahayana worship, the monument was later adapted for Theravada Buddhism, and an Ayutthaya-period brick hall was added to the east side.

Lopburi people live alongside the monkeys with practised patience, and the animals have become the town's unofficial emblem. Visitors are expected to treat the ruins as a religious site, dressing modestly and behaving respectfully around Buddha images even though the compound is largely archaeological.

The cool season from November to February is the most comfortable, with clear skies and bearable midday heat, and it coincides with the sunflower bloom elsewhere in the province. Late November also brings the famous monkey banquet staged near the old-town shrines.

Lopburi is hot for much of the year, with the hot season from March to May pushing temperatures well above 35 degrees on the exposed lawns. The rainy season from roughly June to October brings afternoon downpours, while November to February is drier and cooler, ideal for walking the old town.

The Monkey Buffet Festival, usually held in late November, sees tables of fruit and vegetables laid out for the macaques near the old-town shrines and draws crowds of photographers. The King Narai Fair each February fills the wider old town with costumed parades and performances.

Start at Phra Prang Sam Yot in the early morning, cross to San Phra Kan, then walk to Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat near the station. After lunch in the old town, continue to King Narai's Palace and its museum, finishing with Ban Wichayen before the light fades.

Most visitors find 45 minutes to an hour enough for the shrine itself, including time watching the monkeys. Allow a half day if you are combining it with the other old-town monuments, which all sit within easy walking distance.

Lopburi is about 150 kilometres north of Bangkok and is easiest to reach by train on the northern line, with frequent services from the capital taking roughly two to three hours. Buses and minivans also run from Bangkok's northern terminals, and the shrine is a short walk from Lopburi railway station.

The old-town monuments cluster within a small grid of streets, so walking is the practical way to move between them. Songthaews and motorbike taxis circulate for longer hops, and bicycles can sometimes be rented from guesthouses in town.

Lopburi railway station is the closest transport hub, only a few minutes on foot from the shrine. The town's bus and minivan stops connect to Bangkok, Ayutthaya and Saraburi, and motorbike taxis wait near the station and the main market.

The compound is typically open during daylight hours, roughly from morning until early evening, as is standard for Fine Arts Department sites. Exact times can change, so check locally if you are planning a sunrise or late visit; the exterior can be viewed at any hour.

A modest entry fee applies for foreign visitors, in line with other historical monuments administered by the Fine Arts Department, with Thai nationals paying less. Fees are collected at a small booth by the entrance; carry small notes and check current rates locally.

Simple Thai restaurants, noodle shops and coffee stalls line the streets between the shrine and the railway station, and the old-town market sells fruit and snacks. Keep any food sealed and out of sight, because the monkeys are quick and entirely unafraid.

Lopburi eats like much of the Central Plains, with rice-based dishes, noodle soups and curries in the market and shophouse restaurants. Look for local sweets and, in season, sunflower-seed products that have become a small provincial speciality.

Budget guesthouses and simple hotels cluster in the old town within walking distance of the shrine, while more comfortable mid-range hotels sit in the newer part of Lopburi a few kilometres east. Many travellers also visit as a day trip from Bangkok or Ayutthaya.

This is an inexpensive destination: the train from Bangkok, street meals and the monument entry fee together cost very little by international standards. Budget travellers can see the old town cheaply on foot, with accommodation the only significant cost for those staying overnight.

Stalls around the old town sell monkey-themed souvenirs, T-shirts and postcards, and the fresh market nearby is good for fruit and everyday goods. Serious shopping is limited; most visitors buy little more than snacks, drinks and a memento.

The macaques are the main hazard: do not carry plastic bags, food, drinks or loose sunglasses, keep phones gripped firmly, and avoid direct eye contact or smiling with teeth, which monkeys read as a threat. If one climbs on you, stay calm and let staff shoo it away rather than grabbing it.

The grounds are mostly flat grass and packed earth, manageable for many visitors with limited mobility, though surfaces are uneven in places. Entering the tower corridors involves steps and narrow doorways, and there are few dedicated accessible facilities at the site.

Thai is the language of daily life, and English is limited outside hotels and ticket booths, though staff manage basic transactions. A polite wai, along with sawasdee for hello and khop khun for thank you, goes a long way; the town is often written as Lopburi or Lop Buri.

Visit early to beat both the heat and the tour groups, and leave anything grabbable locked away or at your hotel. Combine the shrine with the surrounding old-town monuments on foot, and keep some water on you, drunk away from the monkeys.

Bring sun protection, water in a zipped bag, and modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees for the religious setting. A zoom lens is useful for monkey photography, and a securely fastened bag with no dangling straps will save you grief.

Do not feed the monkeys outside organised events, as handouts worsen aggressive behaviour that already troubles the town. Take litter with you, avoid touching the fragile laterite and stucco, and support local vendors rather than bringing everything from Bangkok.

San Phra Kan shrine sits just across the railway line, and Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, King Narai's Palace, Ban Wichayen and Wat Sao Thong Thong are all within a short walk. Ayutthaya's World Heritage ruins are about an hour south by train.

The monument is maintained by Thailand's Fine Arts Department as a registered historical site, with tickets sold at the entrance booth. The Tourism Authority of Thailand office covering Lopburi province can advise on combined old-town visits and festival dates.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.