Ishikawa

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Ishikawa is a long, narrow prefecture on the Sea of Japan coast of central Honshū, in the Chūbu region. It stretches from the fertile Kaga plain in the south up the mountainous, deeply indented Noto Peninsula to the north, giving it a rugged coastline, forested hills and rice terraces.

Its capital and star attraction is Kanazawa, a former castle town of the powerful Maeda clan that escaped WWII bombing and preserves samurai and geisha districts, Kanazawa Castle and Kenroku-en, ranked among Japan's three great landscape gardens. Ishikawa is also famed for Kaga Yuzen silk dyeing, Kutani porcelain and gold leaf. Beyond the city lie the hot-spring resorts of Kaga Onsen, the wild Noto Peninsula and the Hakusan mountains.

Spring (late March to April) brings cherry blossoms to Kenroku-en and Kanazawa Castle, with mild, pleasant weather that makes it one of the best times to visit. Autumn (October to November) is equally rewarding, when the garden maples and the Hakusan foothills turn brilliant red and gold.

Winter is cold, grey and famously snowy on this Sea of Japan coast; Kenroku-en's yukitsuri (rope snow supports on the pines) are a beautiful sight, and it is peak season for snow crab, but expect heavy snowfall and shorter days. Summer is hot and humid with a rainy spell in June to early July. If possible, avoid the Golden Week holidays (late April to early May) when domestic crowds and prices peak.

The easiest route from Tokyo is the Hokuriku Shinkansen, which runs direct to Kanazawa Station in roughly 2.5 to 3 hours. From Osaka or Kyoto, the Thunderbird limited express reaches Kanazawa in about 2.5 hours. Kanazawa makes the natural gateway for the whole prefecture.

By air, Komatsu Airport in the south of the prefecture has domestic flights from Tokyo (Haneda), Sapporo, Fukuoka and Okinawa, plus limited international services, and is about 40 minutes by bus from Kanazawa. Noto Satoyama Airport serves the northern peninsula from Tokyo. Confirm current schedules and fares on the JR and airline official sites before travelling.

Central Kanazawa is compact and best explored on the Kanazawa Loop Bus and the Kenroku-en Shuttle, which link the station with the castle, gardens and old districts; a one-day bus pass is good value. IC cards such as ICOCA and Suica work on most local trains and buses.

The JR Hokuriku line and the Ishikawa/Noto railways connect Kaga Onsen, Komatsu and the peninsula, but services thin out considerably in rural areas. To explore the Noto Peninsula properly, or to reach remote coast and hot springs on your own schedule, renting a car is highly recommended, as public transport there is sparse and infrequent. Check current timetables and any regional rail passes on the operators' official sites.

Ishikawa's cuisine, known as Kaga ryōri, is refined and seafood-rich thanks to the cold Sea of Japan. Winter brings prized snow crab (kōbako and zuwai crab) and buri (yellowtail), while jibuni, a duck or chicken stew thickened with wheat starch and served with wasabi, is Kanazawa's signature comfort dish.

The Omicho Market in central Kanazawa is the place to sample fresh sushi and kaisendon seafood bowls. Ishikawa also produces fine sake, Kaga vegetables, and is Japan's leading source of gold leaf, which locally tops soft-serve ice cream and sweets. Wajima on the Noto Peninsula is celebrated for its lacquerware and its morning market.

Kanazawa's biggest event is the Hyakumangoku Matsuri in early June, celebrating the Maeda lords' entry into the city in 1583 with a grand costumed procession, taiko drumming and lantern-lit boats. In summer the Noto Peninsula hosts dramatic Kiriko festivals (July to September), where communities parade towering illuminated lantern floats through the night.

Abare Matsuri, the fire-and-violence festival at Ushitsu in early July, sees mikoshi shrines hurled into rivers and flames. Timing varies year to year, so check the official tourism and city websites for exact dates before planning around a festival.

Two full days suit Kanazawa's core sights, but budget extra time and ideally a rental car to reach the Noto Peninsula, which is remote and rewards slow travel. Note that the 2024 Noto earthquake damaged parts of the northern peninsula; check the status of specific roads, towns and attractions on official sources before heading there.

Pack for rain and, in winter, for snow and cold, as this coast is one of Japan's wettest. Kenroku-en is loveliest early in the morning before tour groups arrive. Many craft workshops and museums close on Mondays, so verify opening days in advance, and carry some cash, as smaller rural shops and eateries may not take cards.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.