Fukushima

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Fukushima is the southernmost prefecture of Japan's Tōhoku region and, at roughly 13,780 square kilometres, the third-largest prefecture in the country. It divides naturally into three zones: the coastal Hamadōri plain on the Pacific, the central Nakadōri corridor where Fukushima City and Kōriyama sit, and the mountainous, lake-studded Aizu basin to the west.

Its signature draws lie mostly in Aizu: the samurai castle town of Aizu-Wakamatsu with reconstructed Tsuruga Castle, the thatched-roof post town of Ōuchi-juku, the volcanic Mount Bandai and the Goshiki-numa ("Five Coloured Ponds"), and the dramatic Tō-no-Hetsuri cliffs. Fukushima is also famous for onsen towns such as Iizaka and Higashiyama, and for spring blossoms.

Spring (April–May) is a highlight, when Fukushima City's Hanamiyama Park and the Miharu Takizakura — one of Japan's most celebrated weeping cherry trees, believed to be over 1,000 years old — come into bloom; the mountain blossoms in Aizu open a little later than Tokyo's.

Autumn (late October–early November) brings superb foliage around Lake Inawashiro, Bandai-Asahi National Park and Ōuchi-juku. Winter turns Aizu into deep snow country, good for skiing and atmospheric snow-covered post towns but cold and with reduced rural transport.

Summer is warm and humid on the coast and lowlands; it suits festivals and lakeside activities. Check current schedules and official sites, as blossom and foliage peaks shift year to year.

From Tokyo, the fastest approach is the JR Tōhoku Shinkansen. Fukushima City is roughly 1.5 hours from Tokyo Station, and Kōriyama around 1.25 hours; both are major gateways in the Nakadōri corridor.

For Aizu-Wakamatsu, transfer at Kōriyama to the JR Ban'etsu West Line (about another hour), or take a highway bus. Coastal Hamadōri towns such as Iwaki are reached via the JR Jōban Line from Tokyo/Ueno.

Fukushima Airport, near Sukagawa, handles a limited number of domestic flights (mainly Sapporo and Osaka/Itami) plus some seasonal international services; most travellers arrive by Shinkansen. Confirm current timetables and fares on official JR and airline sites.

A car is genuinely useful in Fukushima, especially in rural Aizu and around Mount Bandai, Lake Inawashiro and the Goshiki-numa, where train and bus services are sparse and infrequent. Rental cars are available at Fukushima City, Kōriyama and Aizu-Wakamatsu stations.

By rail, the JR network links the main cities, with the scenic Ban'etsu West Line connecting Kōriyama and Aizu-Wakamatsu. Within Aizu, the private Aizu Railway and local loop buses (such as the "Haikara-san" sightseeing bus in Aizu-Wakamatsu) cover key sights, and reaching Ōuchi-juku usually involves a train plus a short taxi or seasonal shuttle.

IC cards like Suica work on JR lines around the main cities but not on every rural line; carry cash. Look into regional passes such as JR East area passes if you plan multiple long train legs — check current coverage and prices.

Aizu is the culinary heart of the prefecture. Kitakata, north of Aizu-Wakamatsu, is one of Japan's great ramen towns, famous for Kitakata ramen — flat, wavy noodles in a light soy-and-pork/niboshi broth, often eaten at breakfast. Aizu is also known for sōki and wappa-meshi (rice steamed in a round cedar container) and for its sake, produced by long-established Aizu breweries.

Other specialities include kōridōfu-style and negi-soba at Ōuchi-juku, where cold buckwheat noodles are traditionally eaten using a single long spring onion as a chopstick. Along the coast, Iwaki and the Hamadōri towns offer fresh Pacific seafood. Fukushima is a major fruit producer too, celebrated for peaches, pears and apples in season.

The Sōma Nomaoi, held over three days in late May (recently shifted from its traditional summer dates) on the Hamadōri coast, is the prefecture's most spectacular event: hundreds of riders in samurai armour on horseback re-enact cavalry displays and a wild flag-catching contest, a tradition said to stretch back over a millennium.

Aizu-Wakamatsu's Aizu Autumn Festival in late September features a large samurai procession through the castle town. Winter brings the atmospheric Ōuchi-juku Snow Festival (usually February), with snow lanterns lining the thatched post road. Timings vary year to year, so verify dates on official prefecture and city tourism sites before planning around them.

Fukushima is large and its three zones are separated by mountains, so don't try to combine coastal Hamadōri, central Nakadōri and Aizu in a single rushed day — pick a base (Aizu-Wakamatsu is ideal for the most famous sights) and build around it.

Rural Aizu rewards a rental car; if you rely on trains and buses, check the last-service times carefully, as evening connections thin out fast. Winter driving here means snow tyres and real snow-country conditions.

On the radiation question: monitored levels in the main tourist areas — Aizu, Fukushima City, the coast's visitor towns — are within normal travel ranges, and these regions have long reopened to visitors; the restricted zones lie in a limited area near the former Daiichi plant and are clearly signposted. Carry some cash, as rural shops and small ryokan may not take cards, and confirm current schedules and access on official sites.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.