Hiroshima

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Hiroshima Prefecture sits at the western end of Japan's main island of Honshu, wrapping around the calm, island-dotted Seto Inland Sea to the south and rising into forested mountains to the north. For most travellers it is defined by two UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Peace Memorial complex in Hiroshima City, which marks the 1945 atomic bombing, and the great vermilion torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine, appearing to float on the water at nearby Miyajima island.

Beyond these headline sights, the prefecture blends solemn history with easygoing coastal charm. Hiroshima City is a rebuilt, tram-riding modern hub, while Miyajima offers wild deer, mountain hikes and temples. Inland lies Sandankyo Gorge and the retro-industrial canal town of Onomichi, gateway to the celebrated Shimanami Kaido cycling route across the Inland Sea islands.

Spring (late March to April) and autumn (October to November) are the standout seasons. Cherry blossoms line the Peace Park and blanket Miyajima, while autumn sets Momijidani ("Maple Valley") on Miyajima ablaze with red and gold foliage. Both seasons bring mild, comfortable temperatures ideal for walking and cycling.

Summer (June to August) is hot and humid, with a rainy spell in June, though it suits island beaches and boat trips. Winter is relatively mild along the coast with occasional light snow, and far quieter, but the northern mountains near Geihoku do get proper snow for skiing. Try to avoid the Golden Week holidays (late April to early May) and the mid-August Obon period, when domestic crowds and prices peak; check current calendars before booking.

From Tokyo the fastest route is the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen: Nozomi trains reach Hiroshima Station in roughly 4 hours (around 5 hours on Hikari trains, which the Japan Rail Pass covers, unlike Nozomi). From Kyoto or Osaka it is well under 2 hours, and from Hakata (Fukuoka) about an hour.

By air, Hiroshima Airport lies about 50 km east of the city, with a roughly 45-minute limousine bus into central Hiroshima and domestic connections plus a handful of international flights. Long-distance overnight buses from Tokyo, Osaka and elsewhere are the budget option, and ferries link the Inland Sea. Always confirm current schedules and fares on the official JR and airport sites before travelling.

Hiroshima City is easy to navigate on its extensive tram (streetcar) network, which reaches most sights including the Peace Park and Hiroshima Port; a flat-fare ride covers the central zone. City buses and the JR Sanyo Line fill in the gaps, and rechargeable IC cards such as ICOCA, PASMO and Suica work on most trams, buses and trains.

To reach Miyajima, take the JR Sanyo Line or tram to Miyajimaguchi, then a short ferry across. Regional day passes and the Hiroshima-centred JR West passes can pay off if you combine the city, Miyajima and the Shimanami Kaido. A rental car helps for the northern mountains, Sandankyo and rural islands, but is unnecessary and often a hindrance within the city.

Hiroshima's signature dish is Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, a savoury layered pancake stacked with cabbage, a nest of fried noodles, egg and pork, cooked on a griddle before your eyes — quite different from the mixed Osaka version. The city's Okonomimura building packs dozens of stalls dedicated to it.

The prefecture is Japan's leading producer of oysters (kaki), best in the cooler months and served grilled, fried or in hotpot, especially around Miyajima and Hiroshima Bay. Miyajima is also famous for momiji manju, maple-leaf-shaped cakes filled with red bean, custard or chocolate, and for anago-meshi (grilled conger eel over rice). Inland, Onomichi is known for its soy-based ramen.

The most significant date is the Peace Memorial Ceremony on 6 August, marking the anniversary of the atomic bombing; that evening the Toro Nagashi sees thousands of paper lanterns floated down the rivers in remembrance. Miyajima's Kangensai, held on the water in summer according to the lunar calendar (usually July), is a stately boat festival with traditional court music.

Spring and autumn bring flower and foliage festivals across the prefecture, while Hiroshima City's winter Dreamination illuminations light up the central Peace Boulevard from around November into January. Onomichi and other towns hold their own local matsuri through the year; dates shift annually, so check official tourism and shrine websites when planning.

Give the Peace Memorial Park and Museum unhurried, respectful time — it is moving and can be emotionally heavy, so it pairs well with a lighter afternoon on Miyajima. To catch the famous "floating" torii gate you need high tide; at low tide you can walk out to it on the sand, so check the daily tide tables when planning your Miyajima visit.

Miyajima's tame deer roam freely but will nibble maps, tickets and food, so keep paper and snacks tucked away. Note that visitors to Miyajima pay a small separate island visitor tax. Cyclists tackling the 70 km Shimanami Kaido should allow a full day and can hire and drop bikes at terminals along the route; book ahead in peak season and confirm current rental details online.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.