Gunma

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Gunma is a landlocked prefecture in the northwest corner of Japan's Kanto region, defined by mountains, forests and an extraordinary concentration of hot springs. Roughly two-thirds of the prefecture is mountainous, rising toward volcanoes like Mount Asama and the peaks that separate it from Nagano and Niigata.

Gunma is best known as onsen country. Kusatsu, one of Japan's three most celebrated hot-spring towns, sits high in the mountains and pours out enormous volumes of acidic, sulphurous water; Ikaho, with its famous stone staircase lined with inns, plus the quieter Shima and Minakami valleys, round out a deep bathing culture. The prefecture also holds the UNESCO-listed Tomioka Silk Mill, central to Japan's industrial modernization, along with ski resorts, gorges and river valleys. Maebashi is the prefectural capital, while Takasaki is the main Shinkansen gateway.

Autumn (mid-October to mid-November) is arguably Gunma's finest season, when the gorges, mountains and onsen towns blaze with red and gold foliage. Spring brings cherry blossoms and pleasant hiking weather from late March into May, and the highlands stay noticeably cooler than Tokyo through the summer, making Gunma a popular heat escape.

Winter (December to March) is prime time for skiing at resorts like Minakami and Katashina, and for soaking in steaming open-air baths surrounded by snow. There is no season to strictly avoid, though mountain roads and rural bus routes can be affected by heavy snow, and popular onsen towns get busy on weekends and holidays. Check current conditions and schedules before travelling in deep winter.

Gunma is very accessible from Tokyo. The Joetsu and Hokuriku Shinkansen lines run from Tokyo Station to Takasaki, the prefecture's main hub, in roughly 50 minutes to an hour. From Takasaki you connect onward to onsen towns and other destinations by local train or bus.

For Kusatsu, a common route is the JR Agatsuma line to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi followed by a bus, or a direct limited-express and bus combination from Tokyo. There is no major airport in Gunma itself; international visitors typically arrive via Tokyo's Narita or Haneda airports and continue by Shinkansen. Confirm exact times and connections on official rail sites, as services and transfers vary.

Trains cover Gunma's main corridor: JR lines fan out from Takasaki and Maebashi to Tomioka, along the Agatsuma valley and toward the mountains, and buses link the stations to onsen resorts like Kusatsu, Ikaho and Minakami. IC cards such as Suica and Pasmo work on many trains and buses around the populated areas, though acceptance thins out on remote rural routes, so carry cash as backup.

A rental car is a real advantage if you want to reach secluded valleys, trailheads, gorges and viewpoints on your own schedule, since bus frequencies drop sharply outside the main towns. Regional and area passes are sometimes available for the Kusatsu and Kanto routes; check current pass options and timetables on the JR and local operator websites before you travel.

Gunma's wheat-growing plains make it a noodle prefecture. Mizusawa udon, from the Ikaho area, is one of Japan's noted udon styles, traditionally served chilled with dipping sauce, while Okkirikomi is a rustic home-style dish of flat wide noodles simmered with vegetables in miso or soy broth. Himokawa udon, from the Kiryu area, is famous for its dramatically wide ribbons.

The cool mountains are also Japan's heartland for konjac (konnyaku), which appears in many forms including fresh sashimi-style servings near production areas. Around Kusatsu and other onsen towns, look for onsen manju steamed buns, and Gunma's orchards supply plums, apples and local vegetables. Yaki-manju, sweet grilled buns brushed with a miso glaze, is a beloved Maebashi-area treat.

Kusatsu's onsen culture is celebrated year-round through its yumomi water-stirring performances, where the town's ferociously hot spring water is cooled by hand with long wooden paddles to traditional song, and the resort hosts music and seasonal events through the year. Fireworks and summer festivals light up towns like Maebashi and Takasaki in July and August.

Autumn brings foliage-season events across the gorges and onsen resorts, while winter adds illuminations and snow festivities at the ski areas. The Tomioka area marks its silk heritage with periodic cultural events tied to the World Heritage mill. Exact dates shift each year, so confirm the current schedule on official town and tourism websites before planning around a specific festival.

Base yourself according to your priority: Kusatsu for the strongest onsen experience, Ikaho for a classic staircase-town atmosphere, or Minakami for outdoor sports and skiing. Staying overnight in a ryokan is the best way to appreciate Gunma's baths, and reserving ahead is wise on weekends and in peak foliage and ski seasons.

Be aware that Kusatsu's waters are strongly acidic, which some find intense on skin and can affect silver jewellery, so ease in and follow bathhouse etiquette. Distances between highlights are longer than they look and rural buses are infrequent, so plan connections carefully or consider a car. Bring cash for remote areas and layers for the cool mountain climate, which stays chilly even outside winter.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.