Smith Rock State Park

State: Oregon. Type: state park in the High Desert of Deschutes County near Redmond and Terrebonne. Size: 641 acres. Elevation of the ridge: about 3,200 feet, with cliff faces up to roughly 600 feet high. Acquired by the state of Oregon between 1960 and 1975. Widely regarded as the birthplace of modern American sport climbing, with over 1,800 climbing routes. Day-use parking permit required.

Smith Rock State Park is a 641-acre park in Central Oregon's high desert, prized for its dramatic rhyolite and basalt cliffs rising above a bend of the Crooked River near the towns of Redmond and Terrebonne. The park's rock formations trace back roughly 30 million years to a volcanic caldera eruption that deposited rhyolite tuff, later capped by basalt lava flows about half a million years ago; erosion by the Crooked River carved the resulting layers into the towering ridgelines seen today, with cliffs reaching about 600 feet. Smith Rock is best known internationally as the birthplace of modern American sport climbing: bolted routes developed here beginning in 1983 helped define the sport-climbing style now practiced worldwide, and the park hosted the first climb in the U.S. rated 5.14. With more than 1,800 documented routes, it remains a pilgrimage site for climbers of all levels, while non-climbers come for hiking trails such as the Summit Trail and Misery Ridge, wildlife viewing, and views over the Crooked River canyon.

Smith Rock State Park sits in Oregon's High Desert in Deschutes County, near the small towns of Terrebonne and Redmond in Central Oregon. The park is built around a horseshoe bend of the Crooked River, with the Cascade Range visible on the horizon.

As part of Oregon's High Desert, the Smith Rock area has a dry climate with hot summers and cold winters, and significant day-to-night temperature swings typical of high-desert terrain. Trails can be exposed to strong sun with little shade, and winter can bring ice on north-facing sections.

Spring and fall generally offer the most comfortable temperatures for both hiking and climbing, avoiding the hottest summer days and the coldest winter conditions. Some climbing areas close from about January 15 to August 1 to protect nesting golden eagles and falcons, which is worth checking before planning a climbing-focused trip in that window.

The land that became Smith Rock State Park was shaped by a sequence of volcanic events: a caldera-forming eruption roughly 30 million years ago deposited rhyolite tuff, and basalt lava flows about half a million years ago capped these older layers, with the Crooked River subsequently eroding the canyon and ridgelines into their current form. Oregon acquired the property as a state park between 1960 and 1975. Rock climbing took off here starting in 1983, and the park became internationally significant to the sport in the following decades as climbers established increasingly difficult bolted routes, earning Smith Rock recognition as the birthplace of modern American sport climbing; roughly 500 new routes were added between 1992 and 2009 alone.

Rock climbing is the park's signature activity, with more than 1,800 routes across a range of difficulties, drawing climbers from beginner to elite level. Hiking is also popular, especially the Misery Ridge Trail and the longer Summit Trail, both offering views over the Crooked River canyon and the surrounding high desert. Wildlife watching (mule deer, river otters, prairie falcons and golden eagles) and simply photographing the rock formations from the canyon rim or riverside are common lower-effort options.

The Misery Ridge Trail and Summit Trail are the park's most popular hiking routes, each offering canyon and river views. The Crooked River, which loops through the park, is a scenic centerpiece for both hikers and climbers. Monkey Face, a distinctive rock spire, is one of the park's most recognizable climbing formations and photo subjects.

Smith Rock State Park is near Terrebonne, a short drive north of Redmond in Central Oregon, and roughly a 25-30 minute drive from Bend. The nearest airport with commercial service is Roberts Field / Redmond Municipal Airport (RDM), about 15 miles away.

Day-use visitor hours run from dawn to dusk, according to search-result summaries of the park's own visitor information; specific facility hours (such as any visitor center) should be confirmed directly with Oregon State Parks before visiting.

A day-use parking permit is required per vehicle: $10 for Oregon-plated vehicles and $12.50 for out-of-state vehicles, per SmithRock.com's fee summary of the park's own pricing. An annual permit is available for $60 (Oregon residents) or $75 (non-residents) as of January 1, 2026. No separate climbing permit is required for general climbing, though some areas close seasonally (roughly January 15-August 1) to protect nesting raptors.

A half-day is enough for a shorter hike like Misery Ridge, while climbers or those hiking the full Summit Trail loop often spend a full day; some visitors camp overnight to climb over multiple days.

The park has its own walk-in campground for tent camping. Nearby Terrebonne and Redmond offer additional hotels, motels and vacation rentals, with Bend, about 25-30 minutes south, providing a wider range of lodging options for visitors basing themselves in a larger town.

Terrebonne, immediately adjacent to the park, has a small selection of casual cafes and climber-oriented eateries. Redmond and Bend, both a short drive away, offer a much broader range of restaurants and breweries for visitors wanting more dining variety after a day at the park.

Redmond and Bend, both within a roughly 15-30 minute drive, offer additional dining, lodging and attractions. The wider Central Oregon high-desert and Cascade Lakes area is accessible for visitors extending their trip.

Roberts Field / Redmond Municipal Airport (RDM), about 15 miles south, is the nearest airport with commercial service. A car is essential for reaching the park, since there is no public transit directly serving Smith Rock.

Trails and climbing routes here involve exposed high-desert terrain with strong sun and little shade, so sun protection and adequate water are important, especially in summer heat. Climbers should check seasonal raptor-nesting closures (roughly January 15-August 1) before planning routes in affected areas. Watch for rattlesnakes, which are present in the park, and stay on marked trails near cliff edges.

Sturdy hiking or climbing footwear, plenty of water, sun protection (hat, sunscreen), and a day-use parking permit purchased on arrival or in advance. Climbers should bring standard sport-climbing gear and check current route/closure information before heading out.

Buy your day-use parking permit on arrival, since it's required per vehicle and checked at the lot. Start hikes or climbs early in the day during summer to avoid the worst heat, since much of the terrain is exposed with little shade. If climbing during nesting season (mid-January through early August), check which crags are closed for raptor protection before planning your day.

For any emergency, dial 911. For non-emergency park questions, the Park Manager can be reached at 541-548-7501, per search-result information sourced from the park's own contact details.

Oregon State Parks - Smith Rock State Park - https://stateparks.oregon.gov ; SmithRock.com (park guide) - https://www.smithrock.com

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.

This section is being updated and will be available shortly.