Ornaments And Jewellery

About:

The Ornaments-and-Jewellery Craft, specifically known as Dokra, is one of the oldest known techniques of non-ferrous metal casting,
tracing back thousands of years. Originally, "Dokra" described a community of itinerant craftsmen skilled in creating intricate brassware
using the lost wax process. Today, Dokra represents a range of beautifully designed brass products that showcase the craftsmanship
and heritage of these artisans.

Historically,Dokra craftsmen traveled among various tribes, crafting items for ceremonial and religious purposes, as well as daily utility
items like ornaments and kitchenware. Each item tells a story, embodying the cultural and artistic traditions of the regions they served.

The tribal communities of Madhya Pradesh are renowned for their imaginative and creative contributions to the ornaments-and-jewellery
craft, particularly through intricate wirework. Although active Dokra production is limited in Gwalior, these items are widely available in the market.
For those seeking a broader selection and authentic pieces, we recommend purchasing directly from areas with extensive Dokra production for a richer variety and competitive prices.

Recently, Dokra craftsmanship has seen a resurgence as more people appreciate its traditional beauty and sustainable qualities. Artisans are now supported by the government and various cooperatives, which offer training, resources, and market access. This revival has allowed Dokra to reach a global audience and has elevated it to a popular choice for eco-friendly and ethnic interior design.

In modern times, Dokra artisans have adapted traditional designs to create contemporary jewelry, such as earrings, bracelets, and necklaces, featuring ethnic motifs that appeal to both local and international markets. This handcrafted jewelry resonates with eco-conscious buyers looking for sustainable and unique pieces that carry cultural significance.

Questions remain about whether Dokra is a preserved tradition or a reimagined art based on historical narratives. Today, Dokra craftsmen, now often called "karamkars," continue to uphold this rich craft, and it remains a collaborative effort, involving both men and women in the crafting process.

Dokra metalwork is especially popular in West Bengal, where it is revered as an important folk art form. Using clay, wax, and metal, Dokra artisans create a wide range of items, from statues and jewelry to idols and decorative pieces. This process requires great skill and patience, embodying the essence of India’s artistic heritage.

In the crafting process, artisans first mold wax into a desired shape, which is then coated in layers of clay. Once the clay mold hardens, metal is poured in to create the final product. This technique allows for the creation of beautifully detailed pieces, such as animal figurines, traditional jewelry like anklets and bells, and home decor items such as lamp holders, chains, and vases. Each piece is crafted with care, preserving the authenticity and folk essence of Dokra artistry.

Location:

Location: Dokra metalwork is primarily associated with the eastern and central parts of India, with notable centers in West Bengal (including the town of Bikna), Odisha (particularly in the Dhenkanal district), Chhattisgarh, Madhya Pradesh, and Jharkhand. These regions are known for their dedication to preserving and advancing this ancient craft. Major hubs in these areas offer a variety of Dokra designs. For those interested in purchasing authentic pieces, traveling to these regions allows you to see the process firsthand, or you can find Dokra items at tribal art emporiums and specialty stores in urban areas.

History:

History: The Ornaments-and-Jewellery craft, also known as Dokra, is a form of metal casting art practiced in India for over 4,000 years.
One of the earliest examples of this craft was found in Mohenjodaro — a wax artifact depicting a dancing girl.
Dokra is celebrated for its simplicity and its deep connection to folk traditions.

The traditional metalworkers of West Bengal, known as the Ghawa or Ornaments-and-Jewellery Kumar tribes, have continued this art for generations. The Dokra craftsmen of West Bengal, Bihar, and Odisha share a distant connection with the metal artisans of Madhya Pradesh, who likely originated from the same tribal group before spreading across the country, from Kerala in the south to Rajasthan in the north.

Dokra metal craft is common in the tribal regions of Madhya Pradesh, Odisha, West Bengal, and Andhra Pradesh. Made primarily from recycled brass, Dokra pieces feature a core of clay, encased in intricate metal casting. Originally, the term 'Dokra' referred to a specific group of craftsmen known for their metalworking expertise; today, it denotes this unique tribal craft, known for its rich cultural significance and craftsmanship.

In West Bengal, the artisans skilled in the lost wax process, also called 'Dokra Kamars,' are concentrated in Bankura, Purulia, Midnapore, and Burdwan districts. The Dokra artisans are part of a once-nomadic community spread across regions in West Bengal, Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, and Madhya Pradesh.

This craft utilizes the 'lost wax' or 'Cire Perdue' process, where a wax replica of the intended object is sculpted around a clay core, capturing even the finest details. This method allows for the casting of brass, bronze, or other noble metals, preserving the artisanal legacy through each handcrafted piece.

Features:

Adivasi, meaning "original dwellers," communities in the Indian states of Odisha, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar, and West Bengal, have preserved the traditional ornaments-and-jewellery craft, employing the intricate "lost wax technique." This technique involves twelve stages of preparation, using beeswax threads to form detailed designs.

Ornaments-and-jewellery, a metal craft with tribal origins, serves as a utility art today, created in various forms for both decorative and practical use. This craft is primarily found in the tribal regions of Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, West Bengal, and Andhra Pradesh. During the process, wax is melted, and the clay mold is broken, revealing the metal object, which is then smoothened and polished to perfection. Known widely as the lost wax process, ornaments-and-jewellery art is celebrated for its rustic, antique finish that gives it a unique charm and appeal. With enchanting folk motifs, this craft is revered around the world.

Related Arts and Crafts in Madhya Pradesh

• Tie & Dye (Bandhani/Bandhej)
  • Uses resist-dye technique with thread and knots.
  • Main centers: Mandsaur, Indore, and Ujjain.
• Batik
  • Fabric painted with wax and dyed, popular for sarees and dress material.
  • Main centers: Indore and Bherongarh.
• Saree Weaving
  • Famous for Chanderi and Maheshwari sarees.
  • Key features: silk and cotton blend, zari work, reversible borders.
  • Tussar silk production in Champa.
• Durrie Weaving
  • Thick woven floor coverings with bold patterns.
  • Centers: Sironj, Jhabua, Jabalpur, and Shahdol.
• Carpet Weaving
  • Known for vibrant woolen carpets with traditional motifs.
  • Main centers: Gwalior, Shahdol, and Mandla.
• Zari Work
  • Intricate metallic embroidery for purses, bags, and slippers.
  • Main centers: Bhopal, Gwalior, and Indore.
• Ornaments & Jewellery
  • Made from gold, silver, bronze, and mixed metals.
  • Popular in Tikamgarh, Jhabua, and Sheopur-Kalan.

Additional Crafts

• Folk Paintings
  • Wall paintings linked to local festivals and rituals.
  • Styles: Bundelkhand, Gondwana, Mandana in Malwa, Nimar, and Tanwarghar.
• Iron Craft
  • Iron items like candle stands and statues are common in tribal areas.
  • Key centers: Gond, Muria, and Bhatra communities.
• Metal Craft
  • Lamps, boxes, and animal figurines with socio-religious significance.
• Stone Carving
  • Famous for latticework and statues in Gwalior, Vidisha, and Khajuraho.
• Woodcraft
  • Embossed doors, ceilings, and sculptures in wood.
  • Main centers: Gwalior, Rewa, Sheopur-Kalan.
• Stuffed Leather Toys
  • Painted leather toys, shoes, and bags from Gwalior, Indore, Dewas.
• Brass Work
  • Crafted by Bastar tribes using cire-perdue (lost wax) technique.
• Papier Mache
  • Figures of birds and animals crafted with natural colors.
  • Main center: Ujjain, also in Gwalior, Bhopal.
• Terracotta
  • Animal figures and statues placed in shrines; common in Bundelkhand.
• Bamboo & Cane
  • Baskets, furniture crafted by Gond, Baiga, and Korku tribes.
• Dolls
  • Cloth dolls reflecting Indian cultural diversity, popular in Gwalior and Bhopal.

Performing Arts & Folk Dances

• Gaur Dance - Celebrates hunting spirit, popular among Marias of Bastar.
• Muria Dance - Pre-wedding ritual dance performed by Murias.
• Saila Dance - Stick dance performed post-harvest in Chhattisgarh.
• Karma Dance - Fertility dance associated with the Karma festival.
• Kaksar Dance - Performed by Hill Marias in Bastar to invoke blessings for harvest.
• Sua or Sugga Dance - Parrot dance by women during Diwali.
• Matki Dance - Solo dance with a pot on the head, popular in Malwa region.

Musical Traditions

• Folk Music - Tribal music, countryside ceremonial songs, and Bhakti music.
• Instruments
  • Drums: Dhol, Mandal, Parang.
  • Flutes: Bans, Algoza.
  • String instruments: Sarangi, Dhungru.
  • Other instruments: Pungi, Morchang, Ghangli.